…which converts to a balmy 42 degrees Fahrenheit! There’s an apotheke (drug store) on the corner I check on the way to the swimming pool for a digital reading of the time and the weather. My guess was way off today: I thought it was at least 12 degrees Celsius. Just three months ago, Howard and I were in Italy forcing ourselves to eat gelato every day to combat the heat: high 30’s to low 40’s Celsius (90’s-100 + Fahrenheit)! Each month, I’ve watched the thermometer inch down: in September I was surprised by the steady decline into the 20’s, and now in October, along with the yellow and red leaves, the temperature has fallen another 10 degrees! My mom said, “Maybe it will snow before you leave…”

Luckily, my mom and my niece, Ella, got some of the warmest and driest weather I’ve experienced this fall in Munich. It was even sunny and 70 F the last two days they were here.

On the first day of their visit, we took a double-decker bus tour of the city (roof open for the first part) that cruised by many of München’s major attractions, including: several museums, the National Theater, Opera House, New City Hall with famous chimes, the outside of a beer hall, the Palace of Nymphenburg with Royal Gardens, the Olympic Park, and even the neighborhood where I’ve been staying: Schwabing, which has been called the Greenwich Village of Germany with its artist district and open air cafes.

Then Saturday morning we took a 3 hour train ride to a Berchtesgaden, a lovely town nestled against the Alps, famous for its salt mining, situated not far from a gorgeous lake, the Königssee, only 20 km from Salzburg, Austria. We didn’t have enough time to take the salt mining tour or to visit Austria, but we did hike the wooded trails above town, ate hearty Bavarian fare, and took the 2 hour round trip around the lake in a silent, environmentally clean, electric boat. When we got to the middle of the lake, they cut the engine and the tour guide stood on the edge of the boat and blew a horn. After each line of the song, he would pause and let the mountains echo the melody back. It was a most extraordinary duet!

Monday, I had my treatment—my last blood-letting! Hurrah!—so Ella and Mom spent the day shopping. They got home just as my side effects were winding down and entertained me with a show-and-tell of the booty they had acquired. Then I made the mistake of suggesting we watch an episode or two of “24”. Just as I had been, they were instantly hooked. Don’t tell my doctor, but we stayed up until midnight that and the next two nights trying to squeeze in as many episodes as we could before they had to leave.

Tuesday, we took the tram out to Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site, only half an hour ride out of the city. As you can imagine, it was an incredibly chilling experience to step on the very ground where so many unspeakable atrocities against innocent people had been carried out over a12 year duration. We each had an audio guide that not only described the different buildings on the site and how they had been used; but, also included personal testimonies and recollections shared by survivors of the camp. There was a film shown in different languages and lots of photographs, historical background, and information in the museum. But even with all this realia, how can one begin to comprehend the magnitude of the suffering, the devastating ripples sent out across generations, families, communities, the world? As one of the memorials so simply but powerfully put it, “We must never forget.”

And once again, trying to grasp such unimaginable loss, I am overwhelmed with emotion and gratitude for all the resources and technology, for all the prayers, concern and support that have been showered on me to help save my singular life. May I use it to be of service, to bring some good. I shall never forget how lucky I am.

The last afternoon of Mom and Ella’s visit was spent strolling through the English Garden, admiring the autumn leaves, the meandering river, the little children riding their wooden bicycles, the couples picnicking on blankets on the grass… My visitors drank their final Bavarian brew and we shared a gargantuan pretzel at the beer garden on the lake. Our table was so close to the water, Mom befriended a handsome swan that could almost stretch its neck to the height of the table and help itself to our snack!

Needless to say, I was so happy to have them here! Their enthusiasm and curiosity for the many novelties of another country, culture, and language were contagious and many of the sights became new again for me through their eyes and exclamations. Ella kept saying, “I can’t stop smiling!” A beautiful sight indeed! In fact, I’ll try to load some of our photos so you can see both of their gorgeous grins!

They’ve only been gone 36 hours and I miss them already; but, don’t feel too sorry for me because my brother, his wife, and 5 year old daughter arrive Sunday morning! Let the festivities continue! And the flu shots, too!

Love to y’all,
Kathleen

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